Thursday, 23 July 2009

square eyes

just taking a break from watching oprah reporting on the ‘yearning for zion’ ranch in texas – it’s a sect of the latter day saints religion (there is a church of theirs near the albert hall in london and it is really nice architecture – all white and with lovely stained glass), they are something to do with mormons i think. anyway, what a bunch of weirdos, it’s this ranch community, all the women wear those big puffy sleeved old dresses, like from little house on the prairie, and the children aren’t allowed to play, nor do they want to, oprah asked them if they had heard of mickey mouse, or the little mermaid, or cinderella, and they all looked at her really puzzled and blank. their leader is currently in prison for marrying a 12 year old girl, and in one of the houses, there is one man, 3 wives and 9 children – they say they live in a christ-like love, not a human passion like love. there was a big raid on the ranch a while ago and they took the children away from the parents and investigated them all, and there were lots of claims of abuse etc. anyway all of this is by the by, and has nothing to do with anything else, other than an explanation of what i am watching on television at this moment.

the above does actually relate to a point i wanted to make that there are so many advert breaks on tv that really what it is actually is a large advert with bits in between the adverts that aren’t adverts, but are programmes, but you only get to see the programmes for a little bit of time until the adverts come back again. and the adverts advertise things that you didn’t think you need, but oh my god how did you live without them? like a clothes hanger that holds 5 clothes hangers then magically tips forward and saves you a fifth of your wardrobe space!(it comes with a stick-on wardrobe light so you never have to fumble around in the dark in your wardrobe again (unless of course you want to and you could leave it switched off)!); or a magic large box that goes under your bed and is all segmented and you can store all your shoes in so you never have to look at them again!; or a whole set of cds that teach you how to use your computer, and how to buy and sell things on ebay – send me proof of your first ebay transaction and i will send you $50! or 1-800 dentist that will match you with a dentist you get on with! (probably you get some free false teeth with the offer). i mean really, how did i get through life this far without these things? god only knows. given that i only have 3 pairs of shoes, about 5 clothes items that need hanging up, nothing to sell on ebay, and my teeth are fine, i have managed to resist these tempting offers, but it’s a only a matter of time until i crumble and call for my trial dvd of the ruben brothers’ introduction to self defense: street style (think napoleon dynamite, the kung fu training scene, but this time it’s for real).

aside from these fascinating insights into contemporary televisual culture and the impact it has on the psyche of the world, what else have we been doing, you are wondering? well, if you call 1-800-blogupdate i will send you absolutely free a beautiful leather bound book of my entire life story, and future predictions, complete with engravings and colour pictures of the inside of my brain and one of my feet, and if you call in the next 7 days, i will send you also a transcript of every conversation i have ever had, including conversations i have had with imaginary people. don’t miss out on this stunning offer. (price does not include shipping and handling, and sales tax, actual price is $100, no refunds or returns – this last bit is said really quickly by a midget).

thursday 9th july

it rained, and the house filled up with flies – they were no trouble, ie they didn’t bite or buzz, they just sat around languidly and a little bit horror-film like, then they fizzled up and died and the next day we swept them up and pushed them outside. they are flood flies i think, or may flies (2 months late if so), they came out because of the rains coming. like a kind of biblical plague i suppose.

friday 10th july

we had a meeting with civil aviation in belize city. we stopped at belmopan on the way to renew my passport for another month. we wore our smart clothes (i wonder when civil aviation will notice that i only have 1 smart clothes outfit, or maybe they have already noticed, but they are too civil to point it out). the meeting went positively, they liked our regulations we have been writing, and made some comments and we noted the comments, and generally it went like that. we said we would make amendments according to the comments they had noted, and we would send them the next draft for their approval. mr jose contreras, who is the director of civil aviation, who is a nice man – his office has very cold air conditioning – i mentioned this to mr carter when we were in mr carter’s office – he laughed and said mr contreras does it so that people never stay long in his office. what a neat trick. i said i would bring a scarf next time, then mr torres asked if i would like the air conditioning turned up a bit, i said yes please – so it went from winter to spring temperature. then you go outside and immediately want to pass out when the wall of hot air hits you. someone should invent clothes that keep you at a consistent temperature no matter what the outside temperature, kind of like a space suit but not so bulky. i shall work on this and then advertise it.

after this, we went to visit a nice man called jay, who has crystal auto rentals just outside belize city, as we are thinking of selling our truck and going to the states for a while while things are slow here, and we wondered what he could tell us about vehicle buying up there, at auctions etc, as that is what he does. what he doesn’t know about cars you could write on the back of a really small postage stamp. he has a big yard full of cars and vans either for sale or rental – mostly they are brought down from auctions, ie they have been damaged and the insurance people have reclaimed them, but really there is no big damage to them – maybe water damage, or a bump on the roof, but the original owner decided to make a claim and get a new car. he buys them super cheap, and denis belini, who bert drove down from america with in january – and they picked me up in northern mexico – brings them down to belize for him. he told us people just aren’t buying things in belize at the moment so we may struggle to get a good price for our truck. he told us tons of other things but my brain doesn’t retain car-related information very well, that is what bert’s brain is for. armed with our information, and a few nasty bites from an orange fly that had been buzzing around us, we set off back to cayo. bert had taken some anti-histamine pills as he got an allergic reaction to the orange fly and his finger swelled up like a sausage, and soon he was asleep so i took over the driving (before he fell asleep). i really dislike driving in belize in the dark – i figured out you have to look to the right, to make sure the right hand side of the road is always in the same place, and you are still on the road, instead of looking forwards or at other cars etc. there are always people walking or cycling that you spot right at the last minute on your right too, there are no pavements here just a rubbly bit at the side of the road. the western highway was supposed to be a big 4 lane super highway apparently ha ha i’ll believe that when i see it belize.

saturday 11th july

we had pancakes for breakfast – we allow ourselves to eat pancakes each weekend, having had porridge religiously throughout the week – it’s the most economically and energy level efficient breakfast food (that wouldn’t sound so snappy on an advert). how come some things you never see adverts for? like porridge? or socks? maybe some things are so inherently necessary to our existence that they don’t need advertising. the worst advert we saw was for life insurance – hey! got people that care for you – like a wife, children, grandchildren – well, how will they cope when you’re dead, how will they afford medical bills!? how will they go to school anymore!? – was the basic premise. we had orange and sugar on our pancakes, and the last bonus pancake that we share (we make 5 altogether), we have banana and chocolate on. it’s very exciting, thus i am writing about it here. but one thing i just can’t do is get those annoying floury lumps out of the mixture – what i need is a special device for getting annoying floury lumps out of pancake mixture. there must be an advert for this out there.

we then tidied the house and bert mowed the lawn – this is a big deal actually, we have a lot of lawn to mow. then we went to the car wash and traded them a cd of aerial photos of their car wash for a car wash inside and outside (or in and out as they say in the car wash trade). we talked to diane, who owns the car wash – her husband mike wasn’t there, but he owns it too. mike also has a large water van with a big pump on it, and one day when we were at the river mike and the van turned up and sucked up a load of water from the river, which he then took away to sell. ha ha this is great. i guess he cleans it first, but i really would not be surprised if he didn’t. i’m sure most bottled water is just rain water or river water, it’s a big scam, created by advertising executives. in belize they didn’t have bottled water until 6 years ago. we drink our tap water here, but luz told us they don’t, and they have been here for 20 years. we are fine, but that night i woke in the night with strange stomach pains ohmygod it’s the water the water. barry bowen, the richest man in belize, sells all the bottled the water here, it’s called crystal water – he also has the coca cola distribution rights, and makes belikin beer which is the most popular belizean beer (of 2). we might ask him to invest in our business, as he likes flying too. he owns chan chich, the resort in the jungle and near the ruins where we flew to a few times.

we took our clean shiny car to spanish lookout (where the mennonites live) to get it valued at the car dealer. i like the car dealer place because they have free high speed internet, we once spent 5 hours there using it while the car got re-aligned and looked at. they gave us a kind of acceptable offer, but we wanted more (that’s what all those adverts do to you, they make you want more). we met up with frank plett and his wife and 3 of their children for dinner. frank is a mennonite, he lives in spanish lookout where the mennonites live, but they were in cayo that night as their daughters had a volleyball match. we all ordered grilled chicken breast for dinner, not on purpose like it was a planned event, it’s just how it happened. except eva, who came a bit later, she is from switzerland and she ordered pork. is there a connection? i asked her if she went back often to switzerland, and if she missed it – she said she prefers the higgledypiggledyness of belize to the order and restraint of switzerland. for her first 6 years in belize, 30 years ago, she had no power or running water. she doesn’t like going back to switzerland where everything’s the same, there’s no room for development it’s all been done already, the malls are there, the streets, the houses, everything’s in its place. she has an interesting point, but at the moment i see that as a positive and the belizean style as a negative – it’s frustrating, i want a latte and a muffin and a happy meal and a mall and ordered clean paved streets and trains and law and order and justice and stiflingly normal normality. i wish i had a little start trek machine and i could zap over to europe for a day to remind myself that i actually hate all those things and that is fundamentally why i left. anyway, she liked her pork, and we liked our chicken. mary, who is frank’s wife told me that the mennonites speak low german, it is german but not as they speak in germany which is high german, and they wouldn’t be able to understand each other – mutter, kannst du dis confirmen zug ab auf? i guess it would be like if i spoke old english – it is english but nothing like modern english. in fact old english is inflected, ie they used verb endings to specify what person it is, like in french/spanish/german etc, which is interesting that that got totally lost, so that now we have to use i/you/we etc. also the reason that shops that want to be shakespearian call themselves ye olde shakespeariane gifte shoppe – the y symbol was in fact pronounced th, so it is still just the word the, not ye.

after dinner we watched the volleyball game – the other team had cancelled lots of times already, they are wussy it seems, so the girls were thankful it was finally getting done. it had rained a lot during dinner and there had been a flurry of rain related volleyball text messaging and a small wave of panic, but the court was ok apart from a big puddle at one side. frank told us about prophecies, and how some prophets came to see him to say that america is heading towards destruction and civil war, and cities will burn and people will scream and flee. there are lots of americans apparently now living in tents outside cities, having lost everything in the economic crisis. there are lots fleeing to places like belize to start their lives again. many people have had dreams of civil war and fire and terror apparently, some of these people are renowned prophets, i presume in the mennonite world – which i think is a branch of christianity. this was interesting, and also scary, and i’m not sure how i feel about that kind of talk. frank and his wife and family are really lovely people, very genuine and hard working, as are mennonites generally, which is why the belizean government gave them the land at spanish lookout and the other communities they have, because they wanted them to work here and help the country. there are 2 types of mennonites, ones that are like amish people and ride horse and carts, and don’t have electricity etc, and ones that are modern and drive cars and do have electricity. frank is the modern type. the old school ones have long beards and long hair and tall hats, and tend to be tall themselves. there was once one in the waiting room at the doctor’s, and i remember he was very tall.

sunday 12th july

we sold some cds of aerial photos to places in the area. one of them was of a house with a green roof which is being built just off the road. the guy whose house it is owns the shell garage, and drives a wingle like ours. he showed us round his being-built-house, it’s really nice. he has a games room with a table tennis table – turns out he’s ranked 6th at ping pong in belize, and recently won the national championship. wow cool. i got on the ping pong team at university, and had to go on a first aid course ha ha, what to do if a ping pong ball hits you on the head. i never actually played in any games as i decided it was really geeky (er like studying latin wasn’t?), plus there was a weird boy in the team who kept sending me emails with pictures of big teddy bears and things on and i thought he might ask me to marry him or something. we sold a cd to inglewood campsite; greg the owner pretty much told us his life story, which was interesting, but i was standing up the whole time and i got foot ache. plus he pretty much told it to bert and not me, which annoys me when people do that, but perhaps he just didn’t like me. he has a nice campsite nonetheless, but he doesn’t like belize anymore and wants to get back to inglewood in california. we sold a cd to rumours resort, a large red and blue and yellow building off the road on the other side, which always looks empty, and indeed was empty. i think they have functions there a lot, but never any actual guests. perhaps it’s money laundering. we went to the owner’s house there to show him the pictures on his tv, he liked them. he asked if that was really how you spelt rumours, when he saw how i’d spelt it on the cd. i said well i think so, that’s how we spell it in england, but perhaps you would spell it without the u like in america – do you? he didn’t know. i thought that was strange, it was his resort after all. we said we like your resort (we didn’t really but you have to say things like that), he said thanks – do you know anyone who might be interested in it? to buy we said? yes. er, no, but if we hear of anyone we’ll point them in your direction. as we drove off i looked at his sign, and it was spelt rumours. we sold a cd to cahal pech resort, they have a great view of san ignacio town, we told them, and they said well it’s not as great as the view from your plane though. no i suppose not, but different. we talked to the owner and he told bert repeatedly that he was mad to fly that little plane, just mad, mad mad mad. perhaps he is. what if he actually was though, i mean clinically mad, and how do you think that would make him feel you pointing that out? (he’s not, but still it’s a valid point).

in the evening we had dinner with luz and jan, and their son joris. joris is studying architecture, he goes to flores in guatemala for thursday to sunday to study, and comes back sunday to thursday morning. he has about 6 more years to do. luz made us something called flor de isote – it’s a flower that grows here and you take all the petals off and then in the middle there’s a little fruit thing, which you take all of them out and pickle them (i told her my surname is pickles), and the petals you cook a little bit with curry powder, and herbs and onions and garlic, then eat with rice. it’s a salvadorean dish, it was really nice, as were the pickles (as pickles always are, ha ha), she gave us our own jar of the pickles to take with us. we talked about columbia which is where luz is from, and holland which is where jan is from. they have another son called jan who is in holland, teaching, he comes back in august for a holiday. they are jehovah’s witnesses, and after dinner they showed us 2 videos about jehovah’s witnesses, which was interesting as i am always interested in things i know nothing about. the best thing was one of the people in the film was called ulysses glass, which is the best name i’ve ever heard. another was called mary christ, but i’m sure she made that up because of being filmed, though you wouldn’t expect a jehovah’s witness to lie like that so brazenly.

monday, tuesday, wednesday, 13th, 14th, 15th july

worried about business things, and finances, and typed up regulations with amendments etc. watched the tour de france each morning (as we have done every day since it started on the 4th) – we have to get up early to watch it, they show it at 830am eastern time, which is 730am central time, which is 630am here. (which is 7 hours behind france). some days they start at 430am our time, and we set the tv to come on at 5am – bert got up as planned, but guess what – i didn’t. even for watching lance cycle up mountains, i just can’t get up at 5am. it’s really exciting watching this whole race from start to finish (it finishes this sunday), and although it sucks we aren’t working much, it’s actually great from the point of view of watching the tour. so far, lance has done really well considering his age and that he’s been retired for 3 years. levi his teammate broke his wrist, and jens voigt from another team had a bad crash and went unconscious for 4 minutes and broke his cheekbone. the crashes are awful to watch, there haven’t been any big pile ups so far, just nasty little falls. bradley wiggins, the brit, is doing really well so far – as i write this though there are 4 more days to go, so i better not say too much. i don’t think lance can win, he is 5th today overall, having been 3rd for most of the race. tomorrow is a time trial which could ruffle things up a bit. i think contador will win overall. i still can’t believe they can cycle at that speed up those hills for that much time – i cycled today up one steep little bit in town and nearly was sick at the top. i know it’s their job and of course if you put that much effort into training then that will be the end result, but i still think it’s absolutely amazing and awe-inspiring. they do in miles per hour what i do in kilometers per hour – sometimes i like to fool myself when i look at my speedometer, and pretend it’s showing my speed in miles per hour, just for a nice little daydream to pass the time. like when i used to check my bank balance and knowing how bad it was going to be, i would pretend to myself that it was going to be 400 pounds worse than the terrible amount it already was, just so that when i saw it on the screen i would go oh that’s actually ok, it’s 400 better off than i predicted. slightly mental perhaps. but really - that hill that took me 10 hours in mexico, they would do it in around 3 – i know i’m pointing out the obvious but i just think it’s amazing. i think that’s what happens when you do something amateurly yourself, and then you see the professionals do it – because you know how difficult it is because you try to do it too, it makes it that much more impressive when you see it done amazingly. like because i’ve never tried pole vaulting, i have no idea how hard it is, therefore when i see someone pole vault a really high thing, it doesn’t bowl me over because i haven’t experienced the problems of trying to master it first hand. or like because i got grade 8 piano, i know how much talent you need to be really really properly good, so when i hear someone amazing at the piano it reminds me how limited my own talent is and makes me appreciate theirs all the more. if i’d never learnt the piano myself, i might assume it was easy and therefore nothing special to be amazing at.

i’ve not been impressed with mark cavendish’s attitude, he made some comment today about thor hushovd not rightfully having his green jumper, to which thor responded by cycling super fast the whole day and getting tons of points. mark is super fast, they say he’s the fastest cyclist in the world, but i think he ought to learn some modesty and stop saying that he’s so ace at sprinting even though he is. then again lance when he first started cycling was really arrogant and everyone hated him too. i suppose you need that mental strength of knowing you’re the best in order to keep going and keep winning. i wasn’t mad into cycling in those days of his early career, so i don’t know really what he was like, i just read it in his autobiography what he says about himself, but he is such a lovely man now and such a team player and so humble and so well spoken, and such an amazing athlete, and his life story is just incredible. he has really nice blue eyes too i have noticed. they match the astana kit well.

also during these 3 days, i attempted to make cold cake. for desert at luz’s on sunday we had what she called cold cake, which was really nice, and is basically a layer of plain biscuits like rich teas, then a layer of mixture which is made of a tin of evaporated milk and a tin of condensed milk blended together, with 2 limes squeezed into it. then another layer of biscuits, then another of mixture, then put it in the fridge overnight, or the freezer for a few hours. easy peasy! so i made one. i put the first layer of biscuits down in the tin, then poured in layer one of mixture, but the biscuits just floated up to the surface. hmm. i went to ask luz – how long am i supposed to mix the milks and lime, she replied only a little bit so they’re mixed. hmm, ok i said and went home. bert said, well it must be right then, so put another layer of biscuits on now. hmm, i don’t see how that will help, won’t they just float like the first layer did? well do it anyway and see what happens. so i put the next layer of biscuits in, and they floated like the first layer did. then i poured the next layer of mixture in, which just topped up the first ‘layer’ of mixture and made both ‘layers’ of biscuits float a bit higher. oh well, let’s put it in the freezer and see what happens. i don’t know what we thought would happen to it in there that would make it correct itself – like perhaps the frozen bagels and those 2 chunks of frozen fish would sort it out? yes, perhaps those frozen chocolate chip cookies will rise up and use their renowned culinary expertise to adjust the consistency of our cake and make it look like luz’s cake looked, and make those biscuits get in the right place and stop floating. well none of this happened, the bagels and fish and cookies didn’t do anything to help. we took the cold cake out a few hours later, the biscuits were now glued to their floating place at the top, by the scientific process of freezing. bert sampled it and said it was nice, but i think it was like when we said we liked that resort we didn’t like (perhaps this was karma coming to get us from that lie?) i think basically there are just some things that remain beyond my grasp, and i learnt this week that 2 of these things are making cold cake, and cycling up hills fast. i shall forever be in awe of people who can do these 2 things well.

thursday 16th july

we had dinner with luz and jan again, this time i cooked. i made a vegetarian lasagne, and it went ok. it had aubergines, courgette, onions and pepper in. jan asked what is this black thing. i said, that would be a burnt aubergine jan. we took the dinner over to theirs, as jan had a stroke 6 years ago and isn’t very mobile. it was the right side of his brain that was affected, which affects mobility, so he still has speech and knowledge and memory, but he does speak very slowly. he told us the netherlands is actually just the low part of holland, i always thought it meant all of holland, like holland does. and that benelux was basically the first european union, belgium, netherlands, luxembourg. after dinner we had herbal tea, luz offered us apple and cinnamon tea but i remembered just in time that the last time bert had this flavor tea he went all strange and tingly and had to lie down and i thought i’d have to inject him with the epi pen he’d got that time he got bitten on that island and had to be shipped back to the mainland, all swollen up and itchy and with tunnel vision. thankfully, this near disaster was averted, and we had green tea with mint instead. i don’t understand it as bert is not allergic to either apple or cinnamon. anyway, jan told us a joke which was there were 2 fishermen on a boat, and they caught 2 fish, and at the end of the day they were sharing the fish between them, and the one fisherman said to the other well you can choose which you want, and i’ll take the other, and the fisherman said ok, and he took the much bigger fish and left the little one for the other fisherman, who objected and said that is very rude of you, you should always take the smaller one if you have the first choice, and the other fisherman said ok, which one would you have taken if you had had first choice? the smaller one of course, the fisherman replied, because i am polite. well that is why i took the bigger one, so you have the smaller one there which is the one you would have taken anyway.

friday, saturday, sunday the 17th, 18th, 19th july

i finished the power and the glory by graham greene, and started a book by haruki murakami called what i talk about when i talk about running. it’s an autobiographical novel/essay collection (he isn’t sure himself what to call it) about him and his long distance running and marathons and triathlons that he does. he is normally quite private so it’s interesting to have such an insight into his life and thoughts. it made me want to do a triathlon again. he once ran a 62 mile race, an ultramarathon – crazy. he doesn’t like cycling and says how lonely it is going out for long rides on your bike with just you and the bike and the road. i don’t understand how you would see long distance running as not lonely but cycling as lonely and after this comment he lost some points in my mind, which is unfortunate as i really like his novels, and i tried to ignore what he’d said about not liking cycling because that would be immature of me to not like his books anymore just because of that, but i just couldn’t get rid of it. anyway. now i am reading the scarlet macaw book about the zoo lady and belize, the book that bert finished recently.

we saw a ferris wheel in benque and a fair, and thought about going there but decided that the idea of going to the fair was probably more enjoyable than actually going to the fair. it’s the benque festival, and that’s why the ferris wheel was there, and at 4am for several nights they set off fireworks, mr contreras had asked us if we had heard them but i didn’t until the other night, around 4am so it must have been that – at the same kind of time a rooster starts crowing too. which is good as it means it’s nearly time to get up and watch the cycling. i don’t know why they are doing fireworks at 4am, there must be some religious significance but i don’t know what it is.

i am also reading the art of happiness by the dalai lama, or rather by a man called howard cutler, who is american and a psychologist who spent a lot of time interviewing and conversing with the dalai lama, and the result is this book, which is an investigation in to how buddhist and eastern ideas and philosophy can influence and help western people deal with western type problems, such as how should we deal with suffering and conflict, and enemies, and relationships, and life in general. it’s very interesting and i’ve read it a few times in the past. i went to see the dalai lama in london last year and i have to admit i fell asleep for a bit of it, i was telling myself don’t fall asleep don’t fall asleep it’s the dalai lama, but the next thing i was asleep. the problem is that the albert hall is too big a venue for someone like that – you want to be close to him and just have a chat, he creates a really informal atmosphere, and he sat cross legged as is his habit, on the one sole chair on the stage, and he speaks in a very clipped english accent and it’s not easy to catch everything he’s saying. he is very enlightened, it’s his main purpose, and it was amazing to be in his presence even from so far away that i really could hardly see him, and i always find it nice to think that he exists in our world of wars and hatred and greed, as an absolute opposite to those things. after everything the chinese did to the tibetans, he cultivates a feeling of compassion towards them; he says that you should cherish your enemies for giving you the chance to practice patience and tolerance, as there is no virtue such as patience. he never let the tibetans fight back against the chinese, he wouldn’t let them sacrifice their beliefs of non-violence when faced with invasion and fighting, because if you can’t stick to your beliefs then what are you. lowering themselves to the level of chinese wasn’t an option for him and his people. it’s interesting when you think about religions because essentially, no matter what you choose to believe in, it all really amounts to the same thing – the bible is about humanity and love and treating people properly, and if you act according to the bible, you won’t harm others and you will live a good life; buddhism isn’t dogmatic in that sense, but teaches that you will decrease your own suffering if you realize that there are things about yourself and your mindset you can change to deal with life more efficiently and in less torment – the main tenets are that suffering exists but can be avoided by a shift in your perspective, and that happiness and enlightenment can be achieved – essentially the end result is that you live a good life and don’t harm other people. obviously there are differences, and i am expert in no religion, so i wouldn’t know the intricate beliefs systems, but it seems to me that essentially all religions are just different roads going to the same place. we don’t know what happens after we die, and we can’t really prove that god exists even if we choose to believe in him, but it doesn’t actually matter, because as long as we find something to believe in that makes sense to how we perceive life, and death, then we will be a bit more content.

other, more secular, things that happened: the men from cable vision came round and fixed all the channels, so we now have about 130 channels on our tv, and they are all a lot less fuzzy than they were before. it’s too many channels. but guess what, all these extra channels means tons more adverts. when bert has the remote control he likes to linger on each channel, and see what’s coming up after the advert break. it’s because he’s an optimist, he always thinks good things are going to happen. i am more pessimistic and prefer to zoom through all the channels at top speed until some amazing thing catches my eye – which it invariably doesn’t and thus i am proved right, that yet again everything on tv is rubbish. he says well if i would just be patient and wait to see what’s coming on then i might find something. pah. nonsense. there is one channel that is blue and has big white writing, saying ‘se busca un pitbull se llama rocky’ then goes on to describe the dog. i waited on that channel for more information of the missing dog, or other missing items to come up, but it seems that whoever lost their dog has basically taken control of that channel, as nothing else ever is on that channel. other noteworthy things i learnt on tv were than nelson mandela is 91 – and he is very active still, and there is a weather girl called jenny harrison, who is slightly overweight, and i wonder if it is the same jenny harrison i went to primary school with? could it be? she was overweight like this jenny harrison, she also played the trumpet (i don’t know if this tv one does), and she had all the famous five books in a little shelf in her room, custom built to hold them all. i never knew if her dad made it for her, or if they bought it in a special advertised offer for all the famous five books plus this amazing custo- built display shelf if you call in the next 7 days. anyway, she was sometimes a bit mean to me (like she wouldn’t lend me her famous five books) and we never stayed in touch, but i did hear that she went to australia at some point, so maybe she ended up as a weather girl, who knows, it seems as likely as any other scenario. nasa launched another space rocket, and it’s 40 years since they landed on the moon (the yearning for zion sect incidentally don’t teach their children about the moon landing – they said they don’t teach that it didn’t happen, they just don’t teach that it did either). apparently there is some amazing video footage of the moon landing out there somewhere, but nasa lost it, it had to come via australia, to western usa then to nasa, wherever they are (do they even exist they are so space age, they probably are all just atoms floating around an office), and it got lost on the way. quite clearly this is a very tall story – they can put men on the moon, but they can’t find the video footage. hardly likely. if you ask me it is just one more piece of evidence that they didn’t actually go to the moon. oops i must have learnt that during my time at the yearning for zion sect. or actually not learnt it.

we heard a cat meowing in our garden, so went to investigate as i really want a cat. we couldn’t see a cat anywhere, and luz told us it was probably the parrots making cat noises, as a cat used to hang out there and the parrots must have picked up its meowing. how cruel of the parrots to make us think we had a cat. luz has 4 dogs, one of them is ill at the moment and is taking anti-biotics which seem to be helping. it’s funny that you give dogs the same medication you give humans.

the tour de france finished one of the days in bourg st maurice, in the alps. when i was at my 6th form school, we had a week at bourg st maurice doing things like white water rafting, cycling, walking, etc. at the end of the week they gave us little certificates – i got the death wish certificate as i had flown off my bike on a hairpin bend, narrowly missing going under a car coming up the other way; and also fallen off a catamaran into the middle bit and a rope went round my neck and our instructor had to rescue me.

monday, tuesday, wednesday the 20th, 21st, 22nd july

cycled; swam in the river which was muddy and murky due to the rain; got a puncture and amazingly managed to fix it with my sub-standard belizean puncture repair kit – normally i have to repair the same puncture 3 times before it actually fixes it; bought some new inner tubes; made some aubergine and pasta sauce pasta – we eat this meal around 4 times a week, as we can get aubergines for free from mick’s vegetable garden – weirdly i never get bored of it; also cooked a chicken which was exciting and ate it with rice and beans like true belizeans; got bitten by a mosquito that somehow got into our tightly bug-screened house; made a ginger nut biscuit and frozen yoghurt and mango cold cake – went a lot better than the original cold cake; dreamt about ice trays, then luz told us she’d bought us some; found out we will have new neighbours in august, some professors are moving to the little house next door; had some spanish lessons with luz; ate some chocolate cake; checked my budget spreadsheet and found out i have spent 59.95 belizean dollars at the cake shop so far this month – that is 30 us dollars, which is about 25 pounds, which i actually think is not too bad, but perhaps my sense of perspective is skewed.

and my least favourite recently discovered fact is: btl (belize telecom limited, ie the phone company here), when they found they were losing money due to people making long distance calls from skype in internet cafes, stopped the skype connection so that people had to keep using btl from their home phones, or btl offices to make their calls. given the average belizean doesn’t have much money, but does have relatives living abroad (in the states mainly), this is very unfair for belizeans and very profitable for btl. luz told me it’s 4 bzd per minute to call holland to speak to her son. btl incidentally is owned by lord ashcroft (mentioned in a previous blog, a uk politician, and belize entrepreneur – invented the concept of offshore investment, owns the belize bank, and a huge citrus company, and other things - basically made zillions of money out of exploiting everything he could here in belize just for his own gain and fun. i will learn more about him in my zoo book so watch out for more information).

and that, fellow earthlings, is that. i’m going to watch some more adverts now and find out about all the things my life is still lacking…... xx

Thursday, 9 July 2009

on yer bike

monday july 5th
what a lot has happened since writing my last blog update which i never got round to publishing at the time, 16th june, but have posted today before this one. we now are in a new house, with cable tv and thus able to keep up to date on what is happening in the world. the main thing that will be happening in the world for us during july is watching the tour de france which started this morning with lance coming in 10th in the time trial in monaco. not bad for a comeback after cancer, retirement and a broken collarbone, but i guess he wanted to do better. me and bert will bet on who wins each day, we didn’t get it right today, but i did bet contador, so i get 3 points as he came 2nd. cancellaro won today and got the yellow jersey and a green one too. bradley wiggins came 3rd, he’s english. sastre who won last year’s tour came around 20th. it has inspired me to go for a big bike ride which i will do after writing this.

how’s that for a shorter first paragraph siobhan.

and a 2nd one. here is the 3rd one:

saturday 20st june
bert drove caribbean island broker doug to belize city as the weather wasn’t good enough to fly him. we had had a really nice dinner with doug and his family the night before at chaa creek, doug said he had woken up with a bat on his face one morning there which obviously was quite disturbing. on his way back bert called me to say he had found a ton of 2nd hand furniture for sale at the side of the road, and negotiated a really good price to buy it all, but wanted my approval (as secretary and treasurer of all things business and non business). hmm i said let’s check the bank account spreadsheet, which was still not too healthy, magically no money had appeared. so we didn’t buy the whole lot, but we did buy a fridge as we figured we really need that for our new unfurnished place. he drove it back and we dropped it off at the house, then we decided after lunch that we could stretch to also getting the really nice table and chairs otherwise all we’d have would be a sofa in the lounge. so we drove all the way back to just outside belmopan to get the table and chairs. bert told me to play it cleverly and pretend i didn’t like it or want it and pretend it wasn’t as good as another table we had seen, in the hope they’d lower the price from the already low 700bzd. instead i instantly said gosh it’s really nice how much do you want for it? bert asked me how i liked it compared to the other one, nudge nudge. i said oh yes well i suppose it’s not so nice is it. then i whispered to him – what am i supposed to be saying, am i doing well? the end result was we bought it for 700bzd, i’m just no good at that sort of thing – negotiating/lying whatever you want to call it. it rained on the way home but the furniture man had given us some plastic to cover it with in the back of the truck. we also bought a frozen chicken for dinner – we wanted a fresh one but you can only get frozen here – we asked the man is it fresh – he said it was on thursday (today was saturday). it tasted good after some roasting in the oven.

sunday we earnt a bit of money flying people around who were at the bne company party across the road at the mystic jungle bar. bne is belize natural energy, and each year around this time they have a party for all the staff to celebrate the day 4 years ago when they discovered oil in spanish lookout. when you go past bne in spanish lookout (the area where the mennonites live) there is an eternal gas flame burning, seems like a waste of gas they could be using, speaking of which we still haven’t managed to light the pilot light in our oven so each time we use it we turn it on or off at the valve on the little gas bottle on the floor next to it. we have burnt our fingers quite a lot from lighting the hobs with matches and battled with its either way too powerful gas coming out and blowing out your attempts to light it, or tried to turn the gas down which inevitably turns it off as you go just a little bit too far to the left, and you have to start the whole process again and burn some more fingers. i suppose these little things are sent to test us. we also don’t have hot water, which is absolutely fine, i don’t even notice it – it’s too hot to want a hot shower, and you can wash up with cold water fine. we boiled the kettle to help with clothes washing the other day, which we did in a stone sink outside and hung up behind the house near the mango tree. we have mangoes, rose apples (really tasty, small apple type fruits but with a slight flowery fragrance), and some other lychee type fruits, all very tasty.

monday 22nd we hung out with marius and darjius from lithuania, marius the photographer, back to do some more photo shoots, but the weather not behaving and he only got in the air for about an hour in the end. we swam at the pool at chaa creek, and ate some melon and ice cream in the evening and looked at the current updated draft of his photo book. mariusdarjius seem to be on better behavior this time around compared to last time. in the morning we had met with mr jose contreras, of civil aviation, to discuss ultralight related business. this had gone well, he is a sweet man, knowledgeable and not overly bureaucratic, seems like he wanted to help with everything we’re trying to achieve. more on this later.

tuesday 23rd we went with mariusdarjius to tikal, in guatemala. they were going to go anyway, and bert had never been (i went with abi last year), and they offered to pay the expenses rather than go with a tour group, so we took them up on the offer. crossing the border was the first experience, and in keeping with everything you expect here in belize/guatelama. you do your passport control. then you tell a different man you are in a car. they need photocopies of your licence, ownership document, passport photo page and passport page that has been stamped with today’s date. they don’t have a photocopier. a man helped out at this point, not a government worker but a random helpful border person, obviously helping out in the hope for some cash from us. he took us over the bridge to a photocopier. we gave them the documents to copy. the passport page had been stamped with the date 3rd february 2009. the helping man said it would be ok without a copy at all, so we trot back across the bridge. it’s boiling hot and humid remember. the car official man won’t accept no photocopy of the passport date page. we tell him the passport stamping man got it wrong. stamping man is still sitting there, so we go back to him with our passports, and he scribbles out the wrong date and stamps the right one. he giggles in what would be a cute way if it wasn’t a huge inconvenience as we now have to go over the bridge to the photocopier again. but we smile and attempt a giggle as you have to stay on your best behavior with these people as unfortunately they have power. one more bridge crossing later we present the car man with the copies, and ask him why doesn’t he have his own copier? we take a form to the cashier and pay it, then come back to the car man. then go back to the car and stick a sticker in the car windscreen. the helping man says he thinks there is one more fee to cross the bridge in the vehicle, but it won’t be much at all. we tip him and say thanks. we drive across the bridge. the fee is 150quetzals, which is 20 usd which is a big fee. i ask her in spanish what it’s for, and if there will be any more on the way to tikal. it’s for crossing the bridge, and no there won’t be more. i get cross at all this, even though mariussdarjius is covering the costs. it’s such a faff. helping man said it has recently got all stricter, relations with belize and guatemala apparently being to blame as they have got worse recently.

we drive to tikal, the first 20k on very bumpy rough road, but soon come across road making machines, which have been mending the rest of the road, so i guess soon the whole road will be paved and nice. made me think of our friends max and mike the cyclists who came to stay as they would have had to ride along that dusty dusty section of road. we get to tikal and pick up a guide, josue. mariusdarjius shows him the belize book which he likes. he gives us a whistle stop tour of tikal as we only have 2 hours or so there as they wanted to get back to fly and take photos if the weather stayed good. tikal was the same as it was last time i went. impressive and interesting and nice to have a guide to talk to about it all. the history channel were there making a documentary about it. marius said they were using old camera equipment and said how it is interesting these days with film/tv etc as the emphasis is on authenticity instead of quality – like how people can send in mobile phone clips of things to the news, and 5 or 10 years ago everything was all about top quality and more and more realism in things whereas.

we drove back uneventfully, crossed the border cheaperly, took the car sticker off the windscreen and gave it to car man, noticed stamping man was still there and gave him a nod. wondered yet again how he could have stamped our passports that wrongly when basically his one job for his whole life is stamping the date in people’s passports. 3rd feb is a bit different to 23rd june. if we hadn’t have noticed i guess they could have whacked a big fine on us coming back in as we would have technically have overstayed our 30 day allowance in guatemala. perhaps that was the plan, but doesn’t seem too foolproof as it seems they scan in the barcode of your passport in their computers, which would show we’d only been there an afternoon. anyway, go figure – this is belize. in blood diamond the film, they say tia, meaning this is africa, ie as an explanation (or not) of why things are like they are there. so we will start saying tib.

wednesday i saw the cornerstone kids, then did some business related things in town, involving wondering where the rain had gone again, it’s so hot here. i went to the post office to pick up my parcel i had received from mammamia pickolita in inglaterra. this was a supreme example of tib. the post office is small and has hand written notices saying all parcels leaving the country will be inspected, and there is a 5bzd fee parcel wrapping fee. there is a small opening in the metal fence that protects the workers from the parcel posting public, through which you put your head and speak to them about stamps and other smaller than parcel things. there is another ‘booth’ where they deal with parcels. there is one man that works in the post office, and about 5 men behind the scenes, who sit at desks looking at screens or sorting out envelopes. there are lots of envelopes and packages on the floor, and there are some wooden pigeonholes with letters written on them and some shelves with parcels on. the one post office man deals with both queues, ie the one just for stamps and suchlike, and the one for parcels. when bert went to post a parcel to his cousin vic in america recently, it took him 2 hours. firstly, how? and secondly, why did you put up with it? were my questions. this time there was only 1 other post office customer – not a busy day then – but it took me 35 minutes to get my parcel. post office man opened the other lady’s parcel she was picking up, looked through it (all of this done very slowly as he is a bit slow), then decided what to charge her for picking it up. he charged her 14 bzd. i protested on her behalf – but it’s second hand clothes sent from her family, why is there such a fee? another lady had arrived in the other queue, and she tut tutted too. the slow man explained slowly it’s a customs fee. but if she was crossing the border with this parcel of second hand clothes, there would be no charge would there, she would just cross the border? why does it matter that it is coming in via the post etc, plus the main point is is it’s only second hand clothes, it has no real value. he said there was some makeup in the parcel which is worth someting. maybe there was. then i realized i ought to stop making a scene as he might whack a big fee on my parcel. he sellotaped up makeup lady’s parcel and gave it to her once she’d paid her fee, to him, but at the other booth, where the sellotape wasn’t, so he slowly walked back to the parcel booth where the sellotape was. good, my turn. but no - he left to deal with the lady in the other queue. technically i was next obviously as other lady had arrived after me, but seemingly he figured if you keep switching from one queue to the other it is fairer. getting the picture as to how it took bert 2 hours to post a box? bert had driven off to do some other jobs by now by the way. the other lady was asking a ton of questions involving typing numbers into calculators and then asking more questions. slow man was slowly answering them. my blood pressure was going up quite quickly and i was having another michael douglas falling down hallucination. the thing that is difficult is that you have to maintain your politeness and friendliness to these people otherwise they will only make your life harder. in this case it’s only the matter of picking up a parcel, but imagine how this translates to bigger issues like what we’re going through with civil aviation and ministers of tourism, and security etc etc. anyway i smiled and asked nice questions about customs and things, and told them my parcel was just a few old books, which it mainly was. i waited for slow man to fill in his form. he charged me 95 cents. result. i paid it at the other booth, then returned to the other booth for sellotaping duties. i said have a nice day (they love that shit here), and left. tib.

i really enjoyed opening my parcel properly later that night and looking through all the stuff mammamia had sent – lots of books, and lots of dvds, the ones you get free with newspapers, starring jeremy irons in his younger days, or katharine hepburn and donald sutherland etc. sadly we don’t have our dvd player anymore as it was previous landlord’s but i’m sure we can watch them on our computer. also in the package was a little bird who you squeeze and he tweets a real life chaffinch birdsong. i’ve hung him up and squeeze him most days, it reminds me of my garden at home in yorkshire even though i would never have gone and sat in the garden and listened to chaffinch birdsongs. funny how nostalgia works.

thursday we did various moving house and other things, including watching tons of michael jackson death coverage on our new cable tv in our new house. i feel sorry for him, not now he’s dead as you can’t really, but while he was alive, being called a freak and persecuted and everything he went through, it all stemmed from his childhood not being a normal one, and being beaten and who knows what else by his father. i guess he spent his whole life wanting approval and acceptance as he never got it from his father. that’s my pop psychology theory anyway.

another thing that happened was that on our way back home from town, we passed a really nice looking vw westphalia campervan going the other way. wowee, we promptly turned the car round and fled after them. we came alongside them as they were turning into a campground up the road and smiled at them, and thought gosh they must think we’re mental. we followed them in and said nice van – thanks, said patrick (that was his name). i asked if they’d swap it for our truck. yes, he said. really? err, what, i didn’t actually hear you, he said, and turned his engine off, and then said no when i asked the question again. we got out and had a chat with them and apologized for chasing them, but that we had been trying to find a van just like theirs on ebay recently, and would they consider selling it to us after their trip, which was presumably to argentina? yes they would. we left them alone for a while, but went back to see them later with some beer (they had invited us, we weren’t stalking them still at this point). they were patrick and anna, he’s from switzerland, she’s from germany, they’d bought the van in california, spent 3 months in mexico and were headed to patagonia, at which point they were planning to sell the van and carry on back to europe, van-less. this could work out very well indeed we told them, obviously depending how business goes here etc. we swapped travel stories and looked at their blog (very nicely furnished with way more photos than mine, have a look - it’s in german mainly though – www.60liter.blogspot.com ). it was a 1985 water cooled westy, resprayed pale yellow, all the interior re-done, new upholstery etc etc, in really good condition, and they paid a good price for it. we will keep in touch. they hadn’t met many other campervans along the way, in fact none i think, apart from at one campsite, an exact same van, in exact same colour, which really freaked them out. they made friends with that one, it was a mexican and an argentinian, but they had paid $400 for their van and it had basically blown up and they had spent the rest of their savings for the trip on just getting it mended in guadalajara and were now looking for jobs again so they could save up and carry on their trip. poor them – but important lesson to be learnt from that story.

friday 26th we went to belize city for a meeting with civil aviation again, at the airport. it’s pretty cool to go for a meeting at an airport cos normally at an airport you’re getting on a plane which obviously is something i don’t like doing, so i don’t think of airports as nice places. this one isn’t particularly nice, but i suppose i mean it’s nice to have the edge taken off my visit to an airport. anyway on the way there i saw a gym called belly flat, and when i stopped for a roadside emergency wee on the western highway i looked up and there was a sign saying trespassers will be persecuted. we got to our meeting with no persecution. we gave mr contreras, the director of civil aviation, a cd of photos of the best of photos we’ve taken from the plane, or ones from marius too for his book. he loved them, we looked at some of them with him, and the other 2 guys in the meeting, a mr carter, and mr interiano, their costa rican consultant who was visiting for a while to sort some other things out. there’s one photo on there of when bert and marius landed on a road near lamanai (some mayan ruins)as they had to wait for the light to improve for photographing, but would run out of fuel if they kept circling. a load of mennonites appeared and looked at the plane and marius got some really cool photos of them and the plane, we told mr contreras the story, then they pointed out that perhaps it’s not advisable to be landing on roads. oops we said (well we said the more official version of that which is gosh yes sir, of course that isn’t something we ever normally do, only in emergency situation like this), and made a mental note not to show them any more incriminating photos of the plane in compromising situations ha ha. other than that the meeting was very positive and bert was appointed president of the belize light sport aircraft association, and he will work closely with them on writing the regulations for controlling ultralight activity in belize, which is very useful for us as it gives us some leeway to make things go the way we want them to.

weekend of 27th june
we moved the rest of our stuff to the new house. the new house is only a few minutes down the road, further west towards the guatemalan border, and nearer the little village of succotz where we sometimes go to the shop to buy milk and eggs, but which is more expensive than the stores in cayo, and the chinese family that run it can’t understand english and get really shouty. once we bought some bananas there and we’d asked is it 10 bananas for a dollar (as this is normally the price for bananas here), and they said yes, then when we took them to the counter he said no i say eight no ten. we said oh you said eight. no i say eight. he shouted so loud it made a little breeze that ruffled our hair, like in a cartoon. it was amusing and slightly over the top we thought. also in succotz is where we sometimes go and swim in the river, it’s the mopan river and is generally murky so you can’t see the bottom but i have learnt to be less freaked out by this. yesterday i met bert there after riding my bike which was nice, as whenever i cycle past it on the way to the border i wish i could jump in it. you see whole families there doing there washing and having little picnics and all swimming in their tshirts, like they do in mexico. we washed our car there once on the way back from our big road trip, as a final diversion from going home which we didn’t want to do. we borrowed a bucket from a man and used the river water, we gave the man a beer in exchange for his bucket. anyway, we aren’t in succotz, but a little bit closer in our new house. the next town along is benque viejo, which is basically the border town. they are building a whole new free zone there, a duty free area where they sell the same old shit they sell in shops in belize and guatemala, but at a slightly cheaper price. it doesn’t make it any more desirable.

cool things about our new house are that it is not a 5 minute drive down a really bumpy and dusty road to get there, it is just off the main road (western highway), but far back enough not to be on the road. so i can do my cycling straight from the house without needing a lift to the road. we have a big garden front and back of the house, with really nice trees, and tons of birds tweeting all the time. luz and jan live next door in the big house, and there is a third little house still available for rent, but closer to the road. it used to be theirs but they sold it to brendan, an irish man who lives here and has a nursery behind where we live. we will get some plants from him hopefully soon. luz and jan have a gardener/diy man called francisco, he is from mexico from merida. he helped us put up a table in the office and we invited him to dinner, and he came for dinner – he speaks on spanish, and bert speaks only english, and i speak a little bit of both, so i was translater. we made him pasta with tomato sauce and vegetables, which is a common dinner theme here. he liked it as he had seconds. then we gave him some chocolate cake too – i had eaten most of it earlier in the day and it was really nice but made me feel a bit sick as it was really rich. other cool things are that we have cable tv as you know, so i can watch sport and news hooray; there are 3 parrots that live in a little cage and they speak and make funny noises. one morning bert went out in his underwear to the car and suddenly heard beunos dias, and ran back inside then realized it was the parrots talking to him.

monday and tuesday 29 and 30 june
did house things. i cycled but got a puncture so gave up after 30 minutes. i made macaroni cheese which was nice. it rained. we went mental writing regulations and long winded things for civil aviation. i slept badly as i could hear bugs all over the house and whenever i woke up i looked out of the window and convinced myself there were people or bugs or frogs there about to get in the house (i guess this is what happens when you’re getting used to the noises of a new house) - i made bert get up to see if there was a frog in the bathroom but there wasn’t. we watched old tour de france bits on cable tv and got really excited about the prospect of watching it all, with lance doing his comeback. we talked about michael jackson a bit. i cycled inside for an hour while the tour de france bits were on, and pretended i was going as fast as them up hills – this is a good idea and inspires you to do more exercise.

wednesday 1st july
drove to belize city for our next meeting with civil aviation, armed with our new version of the regulations for ultralight activity. we didn’t know how many people were going to the meeting, and consequently hadn’t done enough copies as there were 5 of them in the end. we had written some letters they needed from us and stamped them with our company stamp – they absolutely love all that stuff here, like the more over the top and official looking it is the more they love it, even though nothing in reality is actually very official at all and they are all taking bribes all over the place. apparently the last president left having stolen 50 million dollars from the government, but was acquitted and left alone and went off to live happily ever after in bali, and the current government have sold off tons of world heritage unesco protected land here for their own personal gain i believe and then pretended they didn’t realize it was protected land. hmmm. there is currently a coup going on in honduras, as i’m sure you’ve heard about too, yesterday the ousted ex president flew his plane back from the states and tried to land in honduras, couldn’t, then tried nicaragua then el salvador – what a mess. hopefully it won’t turn into civil war. it’s kind of exciting living in third world places and it’s kind of funny (not in a patronizing way) seeing how different they are, but quite quickly the novelty and cuteness of it all turns into incredulity at how weirdly and slowly and backwardsly, they do things, and it makes me realize yet again how lucky i am to be from a civilized modern generally law abiding country with a justice and legal system and health system and police force that work to some extent, at least to an extent that you can trust enough to use, and that if corruption and underhanded behavior get found out, generally this will be dealt with. i’m not saying that is always true and that everything works properly in england at all, just that here corruption is an expected and endemic part of how the country is run and thus you cannot rely on things going according to a certain procedure like you can in a first world country. bert read me out from his scarlet macaw book the other day this, on the same topic:

corruption is a virus that enters the system from the top down. michael ashcroft brought more than the concept of corporate offshoring to belize. he introduced the idea that fair play is a sucker’s game. in any society, lawful behavior depends on social enforcement. if everyone decided to rob and steal all at once, there wouldn’t be enough police to stop us. what does? other people. it’s like jaywalking, stand on a corner with 5 strangers. the light is red. everyone waits. then one person sprints across. he shows it can be done. 2 others follow. suddenly those of us standing on the kerb don’t feel so much like upstanding citizens. we feel like chumps. that’s how it is with corruption. once the top people get away with it, the floodgates open. “government is the omnipresent teacher”, us supreme court justice louis brandeis once remarked. “for good or ill, it teaches the whole people by its example. crime is contagious. if the government becomes a law breaker, it breeds contempt for the law; it invites every man to become a law unto himself.” in the halls of belmopan, ministers who didn’t cut secret deals and line their pockets weren’t the good guys. they were the suckers.

anyway, our meeting consisted of bert talking lots about the stuff we’d been working on, them listening and asking things, me taking notes, and nothing concrete really getting done except a time and date arranging for the next meeting - good to know meetings take the same format whether in first or third worlds then. having said that, it was in fact a very positive meeting, and later that day we also met with mike singh, the ceo of tourism and aviation, who put us in touch with the ceo of national security who we needed to talk to about getting the go ahead to put floats on another plane called the air cam, which is a 3 seater open cockpit ultralight. currently float planes are banned in belize due to drug trafficking problems in the past. we called this man, lloyd gillett, and arranged a meeting for the next day. we drove home in very good moods about how well everything had gone. we bought some new pans for our new house to celebrate.

thursday 2nd july
we drove to belmopan to meet with lloyd gillett, the ceo of national security. he used to be a pilot and was very interested in what bert had to say and was totally in favour of the float plane. this was very good news. he told us a story about how he was the official pilot for the queen when she visited belize in 1985, and they told him to be prepared as she would bring a gift for him. so when they had lined up by the plane after he had flown her back to the airport from where she was going to fly home to england, she came and shook his hand and said thank you for being such a good pilot, and she gave him a signed picture of herself. as he had been prewarned about this, he had brought a signed picture of himself too, and gave it to her. years later when he was in london doing some training there, he went on a visit to buckingham palace and when he had finished looking around and being very impressed with everything there (apparently there is a pure gold elephant there), he asked one of the guards why wasn’t his picture on display that he’d given her that day in belize. the guard said oh sir it’s because it’s on display in her bedroom. and apparently it was, and prince philip had asked her why do you have a framed picture of a man that looks like denzel washington on your wall? and she said oh i just liked the frame, and that was the free picture that came with the frame. and then the year later lloyd was sent a letter saying he had been awarded an obe. and sure enough on his business card it says obe. he was a brigadier general in the army too, so even though this story all sounded very strange, it must be true. he said it was true a few times. and showed us the picture, and a picture of the picture he’d given the queen. we left him our posters and a flyer and some other information about the air cam and went off to have a coffee. he turned up in the cafĂ© we were in and came to talk to us some more, i think he really liked bert and his stories about flying.

after this we went and registered the name of our new association (the belize light sport aircraft association) at the belize company registry place. the lady in the office there has lots of printed out sayings on her wall which we read while we waited for her to find the right form for us to fill in. the sayings are some of them very enlightening and some a little bit silly, here is a selection:
don’t let life discourage you; everyone who got where he is, had to begin where he was
forgive all who have offended you, not for them, but for youself
families are like fudge – sweet with a few nuts

thursday and friday 2 and 3 july
watched tennis, got frustrated that we have a channel called the tennis channel which showed old davis cup matches instead of current wimbledon matches – managed to watch dementieva v williams which was really good and federer v has which also was, but they didn’t show murray v roddick. swam a bit at chaa creek.

saturday 4th july
happy independence day, and the start of the tour de france! inspired by this, i cycled 1 and a half hours, then swam in the river in succotz. we had dinner with bryony who is mick’s daughter and lives at chaa creek, and her husband sergio, who is from paraguay and works for oas which is the organization of american states, ie of all the countries of north central and south america. bryony had made really nice curry. sergio told us that in 1976 there was a war between el salvador and honduras which the oas had intervened with and stopped, it only lasted for 100 hours the war.

sunday 5th until now
we have been working on the things we need to write for our next civil aviation meeting, which is this friday. this is very boring and makes bert go a bit mad as he really hates paperwork, especially in this heat. have also been cycling and have eaten lots of vegetables from mick's vegetable garden.

that’s all i have to say for now. i hope you are all well. i hear there are heatwaves and floods in england, sounds interesting, at least you can use the floods to cool down from the heatwaves. i’m going cycling now. adios amigos xx

a tale of two cities

an announcement before starting today’s blog – for the benefit of siobhan, and maybe other readers who also find my first paragraphs too long but haven’t mentioned it to me – i have shortened the opening paragraph now. this is it; it is very short. the next one is long. tee hee. but not as long as previous first ones have been – and anyway it’s obviously my trademark style as an author.

tuesday 16th june
have i ever mentioned how difficult it is to get things done in belize? today was a day of mixed blessings - which reminds me of the bakery on the walworth road where i used to live in camberwell called the mixed blessings bakery which always made me laugh, and frown a bit in confusion. we started the day driving to belize city for a meeting with mr mike singh, the 2nd in command to the belize minister of tourism, so a big cheese in terms of cheeses of belize. he was very nice, and bert has met him a few times before. basically we wanted to know we had his backing in our venture, and in future ventures like putting an airstrip at caracol so tourists don’t have to endure the 2 hour bumpiest road in the world ride to get there, and getting a bigger plane and putting floats on it so it can land out at islands etc – as bert is always telling me, belize is a float plane paradise. anyway all went well, we gave him a disc of photos of belize we’ve taken from the plane and a postcard and poster of our business. he told us he was dead keen to get float planes and aircams going in belize, and he’d been on one in canada recently and it was ace. then he said you should get your tour operator’s license by the way. ok we said, how do we do that? just go across the street to belize tourism board (btb) and they’ll do it. so we trot across the street and sit in someone else’s office who gives us an application form – it is one side of a4, and the fee is only 300 belize dollars. great, easy. there is a list of 12 things on the back that you need to have in order to be granted your tour operator’s license. not so great – some of the things were straightforward like a photo of the interior and exterior of the business premises, others were fair to middling like insurance documents, police background checks. thing number 12 was proof of belizean citizenship or permanent residency, of at least one of the business owners ie me or bert. belizean permanent residency takes around 12 months to get and neither of us have it, and i certainly never will. um, help? the man dealing with us (amusingly called kenneth williams, though nothing like the original, this was the non-funny, caribbean office worker version, not a giggle in sight), said we can present ourselves to a board meeting which is happening next week, to ask for special dispensation relating to point number 12, and explain what we are doing, who we are, why we can’t have a belizean business partner , why we weren’t born in belize, why we are in belize anyway, i mean why would anyone come here unless they really didn’t have to be here. (he didn’t say that last bit it was just an aside i added, though even throughout all this nonsense i am liking belize more than i did before, perversely thanks to its bonkersness). and then having presented ourselves at their board meeting they would consider our case and whether they could allow us to proceed with our tour operator’s license application. the meeting is held every 2 months, so lucky us that the next one is next week or that would be one hell of a setback. and lucky us that we have to go all the way back to belize city in our smart clothes and endure more and more insane nonsense.

so we trotted off to brodie’s department store, to get some cadbury’s chocolate and other happiness inducing supplies, both pleased with our mike singh meeting and totally crestfallen at the thought of another hoop-jumping bureaucratic exercise that will no doubt take weeks/a month to complete, thus putting off the great launch of the ultralight business, and thus pushing us that bit nearer to absolute poverty and starvation and ultimately death (over-exaggeration in the hope of making light of the situation, but not too far from the truth). incidentally, as no other business like ours exists here, and the civil aviation department is not too in the know on what an ultralight even is, you won’t be surprised to hear that our tour op license depends on the civil aviation department giving some kind of ok to the plane in the first place. this is all crazy stupid and who knows just how much time it will take, and what other hoops they will require us to jump. thankfully my legs are getting stronger from my daily cycling so my hoop-jumping ability must be increasing too. after a fairly soggy chicken sandwich and some pringles in the car in the rain in belize city, we set off home trying to look on the bright side, though we couldn’t quite remember how to do that, even whistling didn’t help like the monty pythons suggested. as we had to pass belmopan, the capital of belize, and where all the government offices are, we decided to stop there on the off chance of them having completed bert’s work permit application. surely they would have rung you, i said, they know how urgent these things are. well, let’s try anyway said bert, just in case. so we tried. and the man came out and said are you the pilot? yes it’s ready. gosh (that was us, not him). he gave us a form and sent us to the tax office to register there before we were allowed to have the permit. we stopped at the bank on the way to get out the money we need for the permit (a staggering 2000 belize dollars!!! nb by the way a belize dollar is twice an american dollar, it’s a fixed rate). all the money we had on us was the 400 bzd i had begun withdrawing from the atms in anticipation of having the permit soon, so we went to the atm with my uk bank card, and our new scotiabank of belize bank card. the max per day you can withdraw from scotia atms is 800 bzd. so if we took the maximum out on each card we’d have 1600 plus the 400 in the car, would be the total 2000. great. the machine wasn’t working. not great. we tried belize bank, but its limit was 500, plus you can’t use scotia cards there - you can only use your scotia debit card in a scotia atm in belize, ie not abroad, not at any other cashpoint, and not to purchase online or over the phone etc – what service hey. we went back to scotiabank, and got in the queue, which thankfully wasn’t as long as normal (ie 3 very slow people ahead of us instead of 15). we gave her our cards and told her the atm doesn’t work. she swiped the scotia one and it was all working, then she asked for a cheque from us too, as it was a chequing account. so what that it’s a f-ing chequing account, does that meant we have to write cheques everywhere we go, if your atm was working we wouldn’t be here at all, i said in my head, and thought of that film with michael douglas called falling down, when things like this push him right over the edge into a killing spree. she gave us a cheque, we wrote it to ourselves. she took my card and driving license and said i could take out only 250 bzd without my passport. this is crazy i said, the machine doesn’t ask for my passport. she said try telling the machine you want 400bzd twice, as it’s full of 20’s and i think that’s the problem why it won’t dispense the full 800 in one go as they won’t fit through the slot. this was indeed the problem, and i got my 800 in 2 go’s. we go back to the car, morale levels depleted by the scotiabank. we realize we don’t know where the income tax office is, but then remember it’s on trinity boulevard, then get stuck in some weird one way street going somewhere weird and i’m shouting instructions from my little map. we get there with our piece of paper from the work permit office, a chinese looking belizean asks for our documents, bert starts freaking out, i get the documents from the car (the company corporation certificate etc). bert fills in a form, the chinese man takes it off him, and his passport, puts some numbers and letters in his computer, gives it back to us with a form which every 15th of the month you take to the income tax office to declare your tax for the month. jeez, there’s a nice prospect i thought, but stored that thought up to freak out about later. income tax on the business will be 6% monthly. we go back to the work permit office with our scotiamoney and hand it over to the cashier who is filing her nails while we count it out infront of her. we ask her if she wants to watch us count it. she says no. we count it and hand it over. she counts it again. 3 times. we go back to the work permit man and he stamps bert’s passport and glues a small picture of him onto a piece of official green paper with words on it, and that’s what you get for your 2000 belize dollars folks. we leave and i make a rule that we aren’t allowed to talk about anything business related for the next hour.

bert tells me how in hawaii he had to go through 6 months of this red tape and he had a competitor there who they had legal wranglings with too along the way and it was all awful just like this but not quite as bad as this. i tell him to shut up and obey my rule about not talking about business. then we discuss if we could bypass the tour operator rule somehow. then i tell bert and myself to shut up and obey my rule. if it seems i am going mad it would be true, but i defy anyone to go through this process and not lose a marble or two along the way. on the drive home we drove through some rain – seems like the rains finally arrived on monday, i hope they’re here for good and it’s not just some weather blowing through.

monday 15th june
i went in to teach the kids but they were moving to a different house in town so they cancelled the class for today. i went and did other useful things in town. today bert was out on blackbird caye with doug, photographing long caye for his island website. bert had set off really early around 6am and flown out to caye caulker, an island in the north, to meet doug and fly him out to blackbird caye. it was cloudy today and we were concerned incase it got stormy but the flight over was really smooth apparently. they saw the guys at the oceanic research centre and they gave them a fish sandwich – i had sent bert off with 2 cold hotdogs (colddogs?) in a little bag but he’d forgotten about them in all the excitement of his flights. they got good photos anyway, but then the weather got not so good, so when bert had dropped doug off at caye caulker again, he wasn’t sure he’d be able to risk flying home and rang for a weather report from here. i said it was cloudy but there was a small patch of blue sky he could probably fly through. i went out cycling with mick and on our way back from town heard a big buzzing noise like a big bee, i looked up and it was bert right there above our heads, in his plane that is. hooray.

today also the rains did arrive – thank the lord. it is now cooler, greyer, rainier and generally a lot easier to cope with life and getting things done. thunder rumbled around for a while and clouds scudded across the sky and then it really rained a lot. it has rained every day since then. it brings out these flies called flood flies, and also at the moment there are flying termites around, which once they’ve shed their wings apparently only have 10 seconds to mate.

wednesday i saw the kids, and gave them a wordsearch i’d made them with countries, continents and oceans on to back up their geography lesson i’d given them. they really liked it, but none of them could find africa. uh oh, but then we found it spelt afrhca. oops. we looked at it on the map again, and i told them that’s where lions live. they love learning about animals and where they come from and whether they could eat you or how far they would chase you. on the bus back from the zoo the other day we’d had a conversation about whether the bus would beat a cheetah in a race, and would a cheetah beat a motorbike, or a bicycle, or a lady running, or a baby? and if so, would the bus go faster than a lady, asked alexis, or faster than a baby. yes, i said, the bus would definitely go faster than a baby.

in yesterday’s class annette had started to teach them some things about how our bodies are made from cells, and how we grow etc, and when she started by asking what are people made of, they said bones, skin etc, she said there is something even smaller do you know what it is – michael said dust ma’am, we are made of dust, another teacher taught us that, the first people were adam and eve and they ate an apple and got evil and we are made of dust and god did it. argh we all looked at each other, now what. how do you explain creationism versus evolutionism to young kids, she was hoping they would say we are made of cells. i quietly did some colouring with alexis and stayed out of it.

sunday we went on a drive to see a hydro dam up the river from us, along a dusty bumpy road, called hydro road. we were hoping we could have a tour around it, but the guy wasn’t there in the little security room so we went and asked a nearby machete wielding belizean. he spoke only spanish so i spoke my now very rusty spanish to him, we thought maybe the guard was at lunch. he told us to go for a drive around so we went down some really cool off road jungly roads, in really thick jungle. the roads were very recently made and bert loved using the 4wd going up and down them, one of them was steep and a bit wobbly and i thought we might tip off the edge but we didn’t. we stopped and listened to all the jungly noises and looked at the jungly plants. we found out from the machete man that it was going to be a resort there and a tourist centre, i guess about the jungle and the dam. very cool. we found the hydro guard man and he said to come back during the week. the hydro power house place is basically where the electricity is made from the mollejon dam, mick told us they made a tunnel that the water falls 10 feet down so it creates enough movement to get the power from. i think that’s what he said but we were cycling at the time into the wind so i wasn’t able to hear every single word. i’ll ask him again. it was all very exciting and there are lots of interesting things like this in this funny little country all there to be discovered and explored once you get off the beaten track. we figured while we are still in waiting mode we should do things like this. we are going to try and meet the zoo lady as bert is still reading the book about the zoo and the chalillo dam project that she was against, and hopefully we could donate a flight to her to see if she can see some macaws from the plane.

and that is the end of today’s update. here are some parting comments on other random things we’ve done:

finished a jigsaw – a picture of an alpen mountain scene, in austria. the top left corner piece was missing which is so upsetting but i think i’d be more upset if it was a middle piece. i had got a sudden strong urge to do a jigsaw and it was really relaxing and rewarding, and i think the reason i wanted to do it was to have the satisfaction of having started and finished something and succeeded at it. a novel feeling given the frustration and incompleteness of everything else going on business wise.

watched braveheart – can you believe i haven’t ever watched this until now? what a film. loved his hairdo, reminded me of morten harket from a-ha, who i used to collect pictures of from look-in magazine and glue into a scrapbook. what a good scottish accent he does.

learnt about cetaceans, from a leaflet from the oceanic society – basically there are 3 sets of mammals that live in the sea (remember i had mentioned on an earlier blog how funny god would make a sea living animal that doesn’t breathe water), which are cetaceans (dolphins, whales, porpoises), pinnipeds (seals and sea lions), and sirenians (manatees and dugongs). did you know killer whales have been spotted on the lighthouse reef atoll here in belize?

yesterday i did our bike ride on my own as mick was busy, and i broke my record speed of 1:09, to 1:06:50. i decided to go as fast as i could for the whole distance and see what happened. it was a bit windy and drizzly, good conditions as you don’t get over hot that way, i was very pleased with myself, it was an average speed of 26.6kmh. still not tour de france material but there you go.

this afternoon we are going to see a house down the road we might move to as it’s cheaper, and owned by a lovely columbian lady who could maybe teach me spanish, and tomorrow we have a meeting with mr jose contreras of the civial aviation here to discuss the last bits of things that need discussing before we hopefully can start advertising ourselves for flights. they have asked bert to be president of the belize ultralight association, which is very cool, currently there are not very many members, just bert, mick and their friend mike green, and the old man who is president at the moment but he is too old to carry on. it would mean bert could make up the rules that govern ultralighting in this country and basically have a big input into it all, working alongside civil aviation who are very much on our side as they want the tourism from ultralights. hopefully this meeting will go smoothly and he won’t tell us we have to go and fill in another 5 page form and go through more red tape. if he does we might have to admit defeat and sell the truck and get on ebay for a campervan and drive off into the sunset…